Modeling G31 Series (G31, G31a through G31m?) and G35 Gondolas

by Elden Gatwood

Background

The 2900 G31 gondolas (with no suffix) were originally built in Altoona during 1948 through 1951. The G31s were welded, steel-floored, drop-end gons of 52'6" inside length. Additional subclasses spun off from the G31 subclass, identified as G31a through G31e, were also 52'6" inside length mill gondolas, but had wood floors (identifiable by the small "w" in a circle to the left of the keystone). The G31 series was a substantial class on the PRR. Later added sub-classes G31f through G31m were rebuilds of the above classes G31 through G31e. They were all originally 70 ton cars (140000 CAPY, about 155000 LDLMT, and about 55000 CAPY). The G35s were the same externally as the welded drop-end G31a's and b's, but had a different underframe, which won't make any difference if you don't model the underframe! You should have a bunch of these for good representation of your layout. If you aim to have 200 PRR freight cars, up to a dozen should be G31 series cars. The easiest modeling approach, although it still takes a lot of work, is kitbashing the ConCor/Revell 54' Mill Gon. They can be had for $4 to $6 each (less at swap meets), another $2 for the Detail Associates ends for the fixed end G31d or G31e, or mated-in ends from the Proto 2000 Greenville Mill Gon for the G31 through G31c, probably another $1 for ladders, $1 for Kadees, $1 for weights, and whatever for your choice of trucks. So, you can do a really nice G31 gon for about $10.

Here's how it's done…

• Remove all parts, underframe, weights, trucks, etc. The body is all you'll use. Remove all paint. The best method is to dump it in a bucket of Pine-Sol (or other mild paint remover) and take it out after an hour or so to toothbrush off the paint. Once the lettering is off, you can hose it off, let it dry, and shoot a coat of paint on it. Use gloves with the paint remover! Don't use your wife's toothbrush, or you will pay.
• For all but the G31c and G31e, all rivets should be shaved/sanded off. Use a square-tipped blade to get most of it, then follow up with 400 grit wrapped around a small block of styrene. Cut off the stirrup steps, and shave off the brake retainer line (but not the retainer, unless you have a good replacement) on the side sheet.
• The fishbelly sill needs to be shallower than that on the Con-Cor model, so scribe a line 0.14" (12") up from the bottom of the side and make progressively deeper cuts until the entire lower side sill can be cracked off. Make a mark directly under the 4th and 10th ribs and connect this to the point that used to mark where the side sill began to go down (2nd and 12th ribs), then scribe new lines downward (so a slip doesn't ruin the body) toward the earlier mark, deepen them, then break off these small triangular pieces. This recreates the shallower transition to the bottom of the new sill. Smooth the cut surfaces with a file, then sandpaper. Nice!
• Cut out the drop end (it has no detail on the inside, so we will replace it) and file/sand down the remains flush with the inside. File down the bottoms of the ends until these, too, are flush with the bottom of the floor. Shave off the ladders and grabs and sand smooth.
• (All except G31c) Using your sanding block, sand down the sides of the 3rd and 11th ribs on each side until they are about equal in width to the ones on either side. There should be 3 thin ones in a row on either end (2 through 4, and 10 through 12). You will probably have to use a knife near the top chord. The G31c has alternating thin and thick ribs like the model, so you don't have to do this step. Unfortunately, for the G31c and G31e, you must now replace the rivets that you removed with the lower side sill. Some like to shave rivets off of other models like the Athearn 40' Box, but I leave this to you. Each rivet would then have to be reapplied individually. Yuk. Better yet, model a welded one.
• Using a file, take 1/8" off the top (actually, bottom) of the truck mounting pins. This will lower the car to the right height.
• Assemble your Kadees in the boxes. Once dry, shave the lip off the top of the box. On the "A" end (the one furthest from the brake retainer), glue the box along centerline directly to the floor and flush with the end. On the "B" end, glue it along the centerline, but sticking out about 1/8".
• Create new end sills from styrene strip to match the distance between the bottom of the floor and the bottom of the side sill. The "A" end sill is flush with the ends. Two strips that fill the gap between the coupler box sides and the inside edge of the side sills will do the trick, flush with the ends. The "B" end sill flares out to meet the coupler box end. Cut two pieces a little longer than those for the "A" end, and angle the ends until it looks something like an elongated parallelogram and adequately fills the gaps on each side of the coupler box.
• Create a new center sill from styrene strip. One piece goes between the coupler box and truck mounting pin, the other goes from the truck mounting pin to about even with the 3rd rib in from the end. This leaves lots of room in the center for weights. Don't install the weights until all detail and trucks are mounted, otherwise the model will keep tipping right-side-up while you're decaling.
• Fashion a three-rung ladder from wire and brass strip, or cut a commercial ladder down to length. Create "stand-offs" from .02" x .02" strip, then mount ladders on the right end of the sides. Drill and mount a single straight grab on the left end of each side about halfway between the top and bottom. Drill and mount straight grabs at the top of each side at the ends, with one leg on the last rib. Drill and mount straight grabs on either side of the coupler in the new end sills about halfway between the coupler box and corner.
• For the drop end versions, either narrow a leftover Life-Like Proto 2000 Greenville gondola drop end, or create your own from DA ends or other sources to fit between the end ribs, slightly inset from the end. The "early" Dreadnaught drop end from P2K is appropriate for the G31a, while the other is more appropriate for the other drop end models. The fixed end versions need to have the end ribs on the side shaved off and replaced with styrene strip narrower than the other ribs, set in slightly from the end. Make 4 and taper the ends (bottoms). Cut down the Detail Associates end and mount flush on the end. You will have to do a lot of filing to get it to fit.
• On the drop end versions, glue a short length of chain under the handbrake. Take a small piece of roofwalk material, angle (cut) the back end so it looks parallel to the end, and mount as a brake platform on the pointed "B" end. I use two pieces of wire drilled into the end to support the platform. On the fixed end version, mount a new brakewheel assembly on the left side of the "B" end, and do the same for a brake platform. Leftover LifeLike parts are great for this, but any others will do. Most assemblies look like Ajax to me, but with repairs, anything would be possible.
• Glue a length of styrene strip centered on the side of the top chord, with just enough room on either end for the top grabs you installed earlier.
• Drill and mount a new brake retainer line from .012" wire.
• Drill and mount new stirrup steps. The hefty wire ones from A-Line are good.
• Mount your trucks. They are NOT 2D-F8s with the droop under the spring platform, but look closer to an A-3 or "Bettendorf" style with the gradual taper to the bottom.
• If you choose to mutilate the model, do it now. A way to simulate damage found on gons is to heat the end of an old hobby knife and then press it against the inside of the side panels until you have a dent in the outside between the ribs. It works OK.
• Clean the model. Paint with your favorite version of "PRR freight car color". As-built (1950's) "freight car color" is redder. Repaints are browner. A 50/50 mix of Floquil Zinc Oxide and Box Car Red looks good for the original paint (Circle or Ball Keystone markings), and add a touch of Roof Brown for later repaints (Shadow Key), and more for even later repaints (Plain Keystone). The best decals for this conversion come from the G31e Middle Division set, which will do the Shadow Key (1954 to 1960), and Plain Key (1960 to 1968) schemes. Others are less perfect substitutes.
• For all but newly-shopped gons, weather the hell out of the model, and sprinkle lots of trash on the floor. Gondolas were more beat-up than any other type of freight car. A liquid wash (1 part brown/black to 5 parts thinner) painted into the junctions between ribs and sides, and in the end corrugations, then partly cleaned up simulates dirt, rust and soot collection. Wash, spatter, splotch, then spray the inside with mixtures of Rail Brown, Black, Roof Brown, Rust, and/or Orange in varying amounts to simulate rust and staining by loads and heat from hot steel. Overspray the exterior with heavily thinned freight car color, perhaps with a few drops of white or gray added. This simulates paint fade and blends everything together. Overspray with Dullcote. You're done!

You can save considerable aggravation by constructing models three or four at a time. It gives a greater sense of satisfaction to finish off a few models at once, and you save effort decaling and painting in groups.

©1999 Elden Gatwood

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